Thursday, December 23, 2010

Christmas Carols...en espańol


Last night we trolley-hopped down to the "old city" to see "Navidad en el Sucre", a free Christmas concert at the Teatro Nacional Sucre. The show featured two children's choirs accompanied by professional musicians, including an Andean instrument ensemble and a guitar ensemble. The Andean flutes were particularly impressive, some being over five feet tall (only a few inches shorter than the musicians in most cases)! An Andean flute looks like this and produces a beautiful, soothing sound.

We enjoyed listening to Spanish Christmas carols, including classics such as "Rudolfo el Reno de Nariz Roja" (who, in some versions, has a nose like a tomato) and "Blanca Navidad." Here is Andrea Bocelli's rendition of "White Christmas" in Spanish:The Christmas concert was a great way to kick off our Christmas holidays, which started today. We're both looking forward to a relaxing break (not to mention sleeping in past 6 a.m.) and the chance to get a glimpse of a few Quiteńo holiday traditions. Here is some information on what Christmas is like in Quito.

Above: Dan's photo of the exterior of the theatre. History of Teatro Nacional Sucre in Quito

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Ciclopaseo

Every Sunday in Quito, cyclists, pedestrians and rollerbladers reclaim Amazonas Avenue, one of the longest streets in the city. One half of the road is closed to motorists for the Ciclopaseo, and its a great way to see the city. We rented bikes for a couple hours and cycled out past the airport and back. There is more info on the project here and a map of the route here. I would love to see an initiative like this in Canadian cities in the summer.
Along the way, we stopped to watch this artist spray-painting graffiti on the last remaining space on a wall in a residential neighbourhood. I really love the graffiti in Quito - it seems to be embraced as a valid art form here, and public spaces often feature creative murals and surprising impromptu collages of anything and everything including cartoon characters, religious figures and bold political statements.

This artist, who goes by the moniker Starman, told us that a group of graffiti artists organized a street art event on this spot during Fiestas de Quito. The idea was to create a forum for artists to present their work while also creating an alternative activity for young people, since the Fiestas de Quito weekend tends to be dominated by heavy drinking and partying. The alcohol-soaked weekend is becoming a problem for the city. This year there was a big push city-wide to "party healthily", and yet we saw drunk men swerving around on the sidewalks in the old city as early as 10 a.m. The graffiti event was sponsored by the municipal government and a spray-paint company (their symbol is the crown in the picture above). Apparently it was a very successful event. Interesting to see street art as a vehicle for social change - and endorsed by the government too.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Monday, December 6, 2010

Cotton candy, Abba and Elderly dancers: Fiestas de Quito!

Today, December 6th, marks the anniversary of the founding of Quito in 1534 by the Spanish conquistador, Sebastián de Benalcázar. It was interesting for me to see that while the country celebrates its independence from Spain every August, the city of Quito celebrates, with equal enthusiasm, the conquering of this city by the Spanish in the 1500s. 
We decided to stay in the city for this long weekend and check out the festivities - and I'm glad we did.
Some highlights:

  • A 6-hour long parade along Shyris, one of the main avenues, featuring marching bands, Flamenco dancers, papier-mache giants and an endless number of merchants selling homemade ice-cream, potato chips, and cotton candy (on enormous poles, of course).